June 12, 2022
Kongola to Katima
Caprivi Houseboat Safari Lodge
I knew it was over 70 miles to Katima and I likely wouldn't bike the whole thing. Have I mentioned the headwind I am continually dealing with?! I had thought about getting a ride, but just decided I'd see how it went and just ride as far as I could before hitching a ride if needed.
In the meantime, shortly after leaving, I come across this. I was not amused as I thought I was out of elephant territory!
As I was taking a break at a roadside rest area, I saw a jackal cross the road not far behind me. Not that I'm scared of jackals, but time to get back on the road!
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I rode for 45 miles into the headwind. I felt like I probably could have made it the rest of the way, but I knew I'd be exhausted. Getting a ride here is safe and never a concern. All the locals get rides all the time. I frequently see them packed into the back of trucks or squished into cars. It's quite impressive how many people they cram aboard. I was taking a break at a rest area and although a little torn about hitching a ride, decided it was best. Threw out my arm as a I saw a minivan type vehicle approaching. The guy pulled over, but I asked if he had room for me and my bike. I thought the car looked full so said never mind. Next thing I know, he's pulling over more and says, "lets try." Sure enough, he squished my bike in the very back of the van. He even scooted the seat the other passengers were sitting in to make it fit. They kind of lost some of their head space due to my wheel encroaching. I apologized, but they didn't seem to mind. That was easy!
I chatted some with the driver, but the ride was pretty quiet. I said he could just drop me off at a gas station I had heard about on the edge of town and I could cycle the rest of the way. He didn't mind dropping me off further into town he said. As we start to get closer, he pulls into a ramshackle area with tons of people around and various meat hanging from various shops for sale and I thought he said he was dropping me off here. I'm thinking to myself, "Oh no, please don't drop me off here. This is not good!" I then figured out he was dropping off the other couple and we later had a good laugh about it. He did drop me off at another gas station close to town and I grabbed some snacks and took a break in the adjoined seating area before heading out to my accommodation for the night.
Another cyclist had told me that cyclists get a discount at this place. As I rolled up, I was greeted by a guy working there and the owner showed up shortly thereafter. Cyclists can actually camp for free, but I took a discount on a tented room for the first night. I t was more than I thought I had been told by the other cyclist, but I just took it because I wanted the bed. It was one of those attached outdoor bathroom situations again which if it was warmer, I probably would have enjoyed more. I've since decided the tented rooms are actually way colder than just sleeping in my tent so I opted for my tent the second night, because yes, I spent an extra day here.
I paid for dinner both nights. I figure if they are kind enough to offer free camping, I should support them in other ways. Besides, I got to meet and chat with other guests during dinner which is always nice. This place has tons of green vegetation everywhere. It's like I'm in the jungle! A nice change of pace!
Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 3,000 miles (4,828 km)
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