Etosha National Park

April 27, 2022

* I.N.C.R.E.D.I.B.L.E.*

There's a WhatsApp group for people cycling the Cairo to Cape Town route (and for those of us going backwards!) I posted a message to see if any other cyclists were in the area and wanted to go with me to Etosha National Park. Quentin from France responded and I delayed my trip a few days so that he could go as well. Nice to have the company and able to split the costs of the very expensive car rental and gas. Getting the car and getting there, didn't quite go as planned, but I'll spare you all the details. The main point is, we got along great and had a really fun time exploring the park. I had planned on going by bike to just outside the park and doing a 1/2 day safari (for obvious reasons, they don't allow bicycling in the park.) This ended up being a 100 times better experience as we drove all over the place exploring.

The first night we camped just outside the park and during the night I heard lions roar! Crazy! Their sound carries about 8km which is how far we were from the park. I was sure hoping none had escaped! (The national parks are fenced in in South Africa and Namibia so less of a chance of lions roaming around.) I got up to go to the bathroom and within 5 minutes of getting back to my tent, something was outside eating the grass and walking through the thickets/trees on the edge of the campsite. Pretty sure they were some of the ungulate family, but I wasn't about to poke my head out to see! The next two nights we stayed within the park at Okaukuejo Village complete with swimming pools! The village is fenced in so we can walk safely around the village. The first morning I got up to walk to the waterhole (that is lit up with floodlights) in the predawn darkness. I'd just like to say that the campground, paths, and cottages, look entirely different in the pitch black. It's also a bit eerie to hear lions roar as I'm wandering around in the darkness wondering where the waterhole went! Ha ha I spent quite a few hours at the seating area around the waterholes in the morning and evening waiting to see what animals would make an appearance. Very surreal and peaceful.

Just for reference, the first day we drove a huge loop around the west side of the park and saw tons upon tons of animals. The roads are dirt, there's a 60km speed limit so it takes a long time. Of note, I think we were the only little sedan car we saw the whole time. :) Everyone else had 4x4's. We managed just fine. The second day, we drove out to Halali village stopping at every water hole on the way. We barely saw any animals which was a shock after out numerous sightings the day before. And finally, the third day, we went and sat at another waterhole where we heard lions had been appearing. Not much to see so we ended up doing another long morning drive and were treated to a bunch more animals.

I was in complete awe of all the animals we were seeing. Although we didn't see any lions, we were extremely lucky with all the animals we did see. Because of all the rains, they aren't as dependent on the waterholes as there are numerous in the "back country" or as the open grasslands area are called here, the veld (pronounced "felt.") What an amazing experience on our little self drive safari! Enjoy the photos!

ZEBRA Section (best of ) because you know, there were a lot of zebras! Namibia has two different types of zebras, Hartman's mountain zebra and Burchell's zebra. The stripes on a Buchrell zebra fade as they go down the leg whereas the mountain zebra has clear stripes.

Our first views of the water hole was amazing. A gazillion zebras coming down for a drink. So magical.

I decided zebras are skittish. They would freak out over something in the water and all jump and start to run away. No croc's in this water hole so their imagination is worse than mine!

I'm not sure what combination of factors came together, but sometimes in the distance, the zebras looked completely black

Blue Wildabeests

Giraffe section

We saw a few the first day, but so far away, could barely zoom in to see them. I was thrilled when we came across a group of seven the last day.

We saw a group of seven altogether. Couldn't get them all in the picture, but was so neat to see them walking

The springbok didn't get the memo. He's going the wrong way!

Coming on down to the water hole for a drink

Saw this guy not far outside the gate from the village into the park on day two of exploration

Springbok gallery

There was never a shortage of springbok! They were everywhere. We got tired of seeing them. #spoiled They reminded me of pronghorn I use to see all the time at Yellowstone.

Miscellaneous Gallery

The people I'm staying with were kind enough to loan me a pair of binoculars and these cheat sheet of the park. Glory is studying up.

This, I think, is a dik dik. A small brown deer type creature. Saw it outside the park our first night of camping.

Banded mongoose family running around the village

Karma, karma, karma, karma, karma chameleon! I know you just sang it! He walked across the road veeeeerrrrryyyyy sloooooooow!

Elephant Gallery - saved the best for last!

Nothing at the water hole when we got there and then out of nowhere, this guy shows up.....

AND these guys! They just kept coming and coming! So amazing!

omg, I am the luckiest person to witness this!

What's not to love about a baby elephant?

Found this guy at another water hole the next day. I'm thinking he was in musth and had recently been in a fight

and this....OMG, that's not his leg!!!!!

Quentin and I celebrating our elephant luck!

Today's ride: 4 miles (6 km)
Total: 2,502 miles (4,027 km)

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Mike AylingYou certainly got your moneys worth!
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2 years ago

Kim JohnsonTo Mike AylingI definitely did! And just wait, more animal encounters coming soon. What a memorable few days it was!
-Kim
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2 years ago

Donna carrWhat a spur of the moment to do treat yourself whilst waiting. Unbelievable photos!
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2 years ago

Kim JohnsonTo Donna carrThis is one of those times having a broken bike and being solo worked out. I was just planning on doing a day trip had I gone by bike. Would not have had nearly the (incredible) experience I had had I gone that route. Lucky!
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2 years ago

Susan StewartAbsolutly Amazing!!!!
I’m so glad Kim you said this is a MUST DO!!!!
Thankyou for an amazing blog
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5 months ago

Etosha National Park

*** I.N.C.R.E.D.I.B.L.E.***

* I.N.C.R.E.D.I.B.L.E.*