Despite my less than restful night of sleep, I awoke at sunrise and got up to go watch in. It was beautiful. I was pretty sure I wasn't staying another night so took my backpack with me as I set out to hike to the waterfalls. First, I went to the lodge next door. There were mixed reviews whether it was open or not (it hadn't reopened under new owners yet). I asked the lady helping me about the waterfall as I was trying to avoid walking back up the hill to the main road. She led me down a bunch of paths and then pointed the way. I tipped her a bit so she was happy.
I start walking on this less than ideal hiking path as I'm thinking, "Is this a good idea?" It didn't seem like a good idea to try and back track so I kept going keeping a very close eye on every stick/branch to be sure it was indeed a stick and not a snake! I did have my gps tracker on so at least I could find my way back if absolutely necessary. The trail was a bit rough, but thankfully, didn't last for very long until I came across some houses. Oh, and I saw some monkeys which seems scarier when you hear noises in the bushes and you're the only one around! I quickly got back on the main road.
I got to a junction and asked a lady which way to the waterfall. She wanted me to pay, but after seeing her run down and get a sign in book, with no one yet signed in, I was hesitant. I told her I'd pay on the way back as I wasn't sure it was a scam. I then proceed up the road. There are no signs directing me so I tried a couple of offshoots, but no luck. Then the guides start materializing. Some young guys wanted me to follow them, but it was down a trail and it didn't seem like a good idea. I had all my valuable with me and it was remote. I found out later, that was the trail to the bottom of the waterfalls. When I got back to the junction, the lady then has a young lady show me the way to the waterfall viewpoint. Ummm, it was really close and couldn't you have just directed me this way in the first place?! It was a nice view of Manchwe Falls which is the tallest waterfall in Malawi. I paid my "fee" tipped them a little and was on my walking the road to Livingstonia.
I asked the gal to take a picture of me and the first ones she took didn't quite work out. Thankfully I checked them as her angle had me completely blocking out the waterfall behind me!
As I set my backpack down to get my camera out, my little bottle of bug spray fell out and quickly headed to the edge of the cliff and down it went! There are no guardrails here, so I made no attempt to save it.
I saw some people who had also stayed at the Mushroom Farm and walked with them a bit towards Livingstonia. However, it was hot and since they had a toddler with them, it was a bit slow going. They also had paid for a guide so I didn't want to impose and soon was on my way making a bit better time. The views on the walk were really nice, but it was all uphill! Of course it was. I was tired and by the end, my feet hurt. I guess it was nice to be off my bike and doing some hiking, but it was a long day.
I still had to get back to Lake Malawi. I quickly became a target of a motorcyclist who wanted to give me a ride back, but I indicated I wanted to try and get a ride with a car. Went to the hospital, which is where the "ambulances" leave from, but none were heading down. A lady was heading that way and assisted me in trying to find someone, but no luck. I was going to have to take a motorcycle. The guy who had seen me earlier was clearly waiting and turns out it was her brother. He was actually a bit older so I felt a bit safer and indicated he needed to go slow and that I was really scared. I negotiated a fair price and was on my way. He was mostly fantastic including stopping a couple of times so I could stretch my legs. My right knee which tends to get swollen, was very stiff and achy from all my walking. What was not so amusing was that he said I need to sit close to him to help with the balance and weight distribution. I did wrap my arms around him at times so I knew I'd stay on the bike when it got extra bumpy. Now, keep in mind everyone is riding double on motorcycles up and down the mountain. What I found somewhat amusing giving my predicament was that at times he was clearly pushing back into my chest and I felt a bit awkward, but amused at the same time. I'm pretty sure if a guy was on the back, he wouldn't have been quite so cozy with his passenger. All is well, I made it safely.
He was actually going to take me to the campground, but by the bottom I had changed my mind as my knee hurt so bad. I said I'd walk. I did walk part way, but the lodge owner was able to come and get me which I was very thankful for.
