In Death Valley: the long drive

January 8, 2020

It’s a 375 mile drive to Stovepipe Wells. I know that’s not that long of a drive for a lot of folks,but it’s a full day for us. We get an early start, hitting the road not long after sunrise, and plan to break up the day at about the midpoint of the ride, in Apple Valley. There’s a well reviewed bike store there, where we plan to stop and have name rear brake adjusted as well as hopefully a few other minor adjustments.

The drive begins on the same road we biked two days ago, toward the Salton Sea. It’s different of course, and nowhere near as full an experience as biking the road would be, but it’s an awesome drive this early in the morning.

Image not found :( — Packed for the long drive. After a couple of different arrangements, we’ve found one that works well.

There’s a layer of something over Salton Sea this morning - fog, smog, we can’t really tell - but it gives an atmospheric look to the basin.

The Borrego Salton Seaway ends in a T-junction with four lane Highway 86. We head north here, and will be on busy highways or freeways all the way until Apple Valley. It’s a fast, easy drive, good conditions if all you want is to cover distance.

Just past San Bernardino,it occurs to us that we haven’t confirmed the bike store will be open today. Conceivably they could be out on vacation, so Rachael gives a call while there’s still time to double back to San Bernardino. It’s a good thing we call, because they’re open but are a small shop with a full schedule for the day already. They agree to fit us in though, and are waiting for us when we pull in a bit after noon.

It doesn’t take long for their ace mechanic to diagnose the problem. My brake would work well with a complete set of brake pads, but unfortunately there’s just half of the pair. I’ve lost another brake pad! They rummage through their inventory, and we’re in luck - they have exactly one set left, so they can heal our wounds.

I’m more than mildly curious why I would lose brake pads twice on the same brake, so I tell them the history and ask him to look for a cause. I certainly don’t want to lose still another set because there’s something amiss with the brake itself.

Nope, the brake is fine. The culprit is the installer. Since one of the two pads is still in place, it’s a pretty easy diagnosis. They were installed backwards. It’s really pretty hard to get them wrong, he says. The fact that one pad is imprinted with an L and the other with an R is a helpful hint.

We’re definitely unfriending Mo and the San Diego Bike Store. Our new friend is Apple Valley Bikes. Great customer service, they know their lefts from their rights, and as a bonus they’re right next door to an awesome deli where we spend the next hour waiting for them to install their last set of pads.

She’s still here! I was taken by this weird mural in Desert Shores four years ago. I’m surprised at its condition - it’s hardly aged at all in four years.

The deli next door makes a great pastrami on rye sandwich, and has a fine assortment of craft beers. A good spot to sit for an hour and wait for the bike work.

Then, back on the busy highway, with still another three hour drive remaining. It’s just highway until we turn off onto Trona Road, a cutoff that takes us up Panamint Valley until it ends at Highway 190, the East-west highway that cuts through the middle of Death Valley.

This is the third time I’ve been to Death Valley, but my first taking this approach, the most efficient route from the south. It’s an astonishing drive, following immense Panamint Valley north for the next hour. From about the time we turn off onto this road, we’re pretty well awestruck all the way to Stovepipe Wells. We’re taking this drive at the perfect time, just before sundown. Spectacular.

On Route 190, heading east toward Death Valley. DV is on the other side of that range ahead, the Panamint Range. The first time I crossed this immense basin, I thought it was Death Valley. I kept waiting to arrive at the settlements, and was amazed when we started climbing again on the other side.

The east-facing slope of the Panamint Range

The Panamint Range. This range and the Panamint Valley are spectacular enough themselves to be worth the long drive out here. Driving across them today, it feels like they’re nearly as spectacular as Death Valley itself.

We arrive in Stovepipe Wells just at sundown, the eastern slope of Death Valley still on fire from the fast fading sunset. We check in at the lodge, and immediately head to the bar for a meal. We also check at the desk to determine whether WiFi is available. Yes, and no. Yes, they have WiFi service now; but not today, and not for the past two weeks either. I’m unclear if it was due to a winter storm or an accident, but they’ve lost the cell tower. And, in fact, they lost all of their power over Christmas weekend, leaving their midwinter guests in the dark for a few days.

So, we resign ourselves to what we suspected - five days off the grid.

But, not quite - two mornings later, we’re in Furnace Creek, having breakfast before our ride out to Badwater. They do have WiFi, and it’s excellent. Enough to complete this entry, and the next day’s also - I’ll post it this evening, when we come back here for dinner after our ride.

The view east from Stovepipe Wells, Death Valley.

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