Lucca - Marginone - Touring Tuscany 2009 - CycleBlaze

April 29, 2009

Lucca - Marginone

We're awake early and raring to go. I look out the window to the street below and happen to see our man on his Bike Friday off to an early start, the tails of his rain jacket flapping in the wind. An hour or so later we're on our way, too.

As we leave Lucca, dramatic lighting for its walls
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Today we ride through some lovely Tuscan countryside and visit Villa Torrigiani and the gardens of Villa Garzoni. We also get caught in some downpours and have what seems like very many kilometers in the rain on a road with heavy traffic.

Our first goal is the magnificent, at least that is what I read, Villa Mansi in Segromigno. What a disappointment to find it locked up. We later find out that it has been recently sold and it in not known when it will re-open. I imagine the costs for the upkeep for these properties are horrendous and that the finance crisis is being felt here, too.

Arriving at Villa Mansi, this is what we find
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Trying to get a glimpse through the locked gates of Villa Mansi
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After peeking through the gate at the farm buildings attached to the villa, we move on to Villa Torrigiani where we have more luck.

Rain is threatening on the way to Villa Torrigiani
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The approach to Villa Torrigiani looks more promising
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We have some time to explore the elegant garden of Villa Torrigiani before joining the guided tour through the elaborate rooms of the mansion. Up until 1967, when the villa was opened to the public, it was inhabited or at least used for formal occasions by the Prince of Stigliano Don Carlo Colonna and his wife Simonetta. I can't imagine living in those rooms, elegant but totally lacking in comfort. I didn't even see signs of any form of heating.

Villa Torrigiani. The original facade, much less ornate, was remodeled when Louis XIV and Versailles were setting the standards
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Villa Torrigiani's gardens: ponds, fountains, sculptured hedges
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Gardens of Villa Torrigiani: Occasionally the sun breaks through the clouds
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Back of Villa Torrigiani, the original syle, previous to the Versailles look of the front facade
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View to the hills from behind the villa
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From Torrigiani to Collodi, our next stop, we have a bout or rain and an unavoidable bit of road that is the worst on the trip.

We get caught in the rain on the way to Collodi
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The worst traffic of today's route: Sitting in the cafe we miss the next downpour
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After taking a sandwich and coffee break in a small cafe, we continue on to Collodi where we can admire the Villa Garzoni from a distance, also no longer open to the public, and wander about its extensive gardens which were already famous for their splendor in the 18th centruy. Here we have terrasses, fountains, statues galore, labyrinths and an outdoor theater.

Villa Garzoni, gardens
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Villa Garzoni, perched on the side of a steep hill
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Viila Garzoni's terrassed gardens
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Villa Garzoni: Theatrical figure with appropriate lighting
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Wall and gates separating the formal and landscape parts of the gardens
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Dramatic stairs lead up the hillside
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Interesting perspectives from every spot
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Collodi is also the birthplace of Carlo Lorenzini, author of Pinocchio.

Pinocchio waves goodbye as we leave town: His creator, Carlo Lorenzini, is known under his pseudonym Collodi
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Enough sightseeing for today. In Pescia, a picturesque town located on both sides of the river Pescia, we are feeling a little worn from the rain and traffic. We take a quick ride around town, looking for a place to sleep.

Pescia, located on the river of the same name
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Entering Pescia through the Porta Fiorentina, adorned with the Medici emblem
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We end up at a hotel 10 km further down the road, not a great bargain this time, out in the middle of nowhere for 80€.

Today's ride: 46 km (29 miles)
Total: 192 km (119 miles)

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