July 15, 2009
Hichtum - Den Oever
I am excited and also just a little bit worried about today's route. We will be crossing the 32-km dike, actually a dam, which connects Zurich in Friesland and Den Oever in North Holland. The Closure Dike was completed in 1932, damming off the Zuiderzee, a salt water inlet of the North Sea and turning it into the fresh water lake of the IJsselmeer. I am in awe of this amazing construction, but we will be exposed to the wind's full force as we cycle next to Holland's A7 Motorway with water on either side.
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The day is sunny, the southwest wind persists. Actually, I don't think it ever stops. We don't encounter many cyclists going our direction on the dam. However, we do see many flying along in the opposite direction. We start out pedalling against the wind at a speed of 11 km, and as we progress the wind picks up and our speed drops to 10, 9, 8, 7 km/h. Hard work is hardly an adequate description of the hours on the dike - it's gruelling.
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At about the halfway mark, we stop at a very welcome gas station and snack bar for a respite from the wind and a bite to eat. After the short rest, we have little choice but to take on the second half. And, yes, finally the end is in sight. We made it!
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How can I explain this? Inexplicably, neither of us is exhausted at the end of the day, quite the opposite - I am elated. Riding across the dike was a kind of meditation. I stopped thinking, just saw to it that one pedal stroke followed the previous one, stopping being pointless. There was no wondering do I want to do this - no, I do this. This day made one of the deepest impressions on me of our whole trip. Yes, I would say I loved it.
We cycle around the little town of Den Oever with a great feeling of accomplishment, check out its windmill and shop for our evening meal before we settle in at the camping ground.
Today's ride: 52 km (32 miles)
Total: 1,628 km (1,011 miles)
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