June 5, 2008
Stuttgart: Rainy day, rest day
We wake up to the sound of rain. Determined to be on our way despite the inappropriate weather, we eat our breakfast and pack. I am a firm believer in the theory that the weather is never as bad as it looks from indoors. An optimistic approach, and only sometimes true. At any rate, our hotelier is concerned and urges us to stay another day. We successfully haggle a teeny bit over the price and are easily persuaded to see what Stuttgart has to offer instead of facing a very wet day on our bikes. They remain in the garage while we walk around the center of Stuttgart.
This is my first visit to Stuttgart. The center, I discover, is all about the Württemberg royal family. The city was built around the Old and New Palaces and their extensive gardens, now beautiful parks open to the public. To judge by the numerous anonymous-looking, post-WWII buildings surrounding the palaces, much of the city had been destroyed. In the years after the war too much had to be built in a short time with little money. Fortunately, the Old Palace and the New Palace are reconstructions of the originals and give you an idea of historic Stuttgart. The surrounding buildings could be in any German city and many are an eyesore. The palaces, by the way, were the residence of the Württemberg royal family in the days when Württemberg was a monarchy and that was up until 1918.
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In the evening we initiate our cycling in wine country and go to a traditional "Weinstube". The region is known for its good white wines and there are at least 100 different German wines on the wine list.
It is customary to share a table with others and while we are still on our first glass, a communicative elderly gentleman, native of Stuttgart and about ten years our senior, joins us. Over some more glasses of wine, he tells many interesting stories about the city where he has spent his life.
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