From Sussen to Stuttgart: The big city

June 4, 2008

We start out under grey skies but when we reach Stuttgart we are greeted by a pleasant, sunny late afternoon.

We pedal around Süssen for a few photos before we get onto the bike route to Plochingen. The bike routes here are remarkably well signposted. I am impressed at how nicely we are led through foreign terrain on small roads or paths to where we want to go. Without these bike signs we would have to resort to roads with much heavier traffic or make unnecessary detours. Or else we would need a tremendous number of maps if they were to have the detail needed to find these minor roads.

Excellent signposting takes us on small roads to our destination

The bicycle-route signs aren't of the same quality in all areas, however. Where we are now, the name of the town you are headed for is posted. In other places the signs lead you along some bicycle tour invented by the local tourist office - for example "The Swabian Potato Tour". Who knows if that would take us to Plochingen or just to a potato field. That was yesterday. There must be another authority responsible for the bike routes here.

From Süssen we roughly follow the train tracks (and bike signs) through Göppingen - where we stop for coffee and pastry, couldn't resist - and then on to Ebersbach and Plochingen, situated on the Neckar River. Along the Neckar, which we can follow to Stuttgart, we get our first glimpses of vineyards on the southern slopes of the adjacent hills.

Plochingen is a pleasant surprise. Never heard of it before. It has some nicely restored half-timbered buildings in the old part of town and after eating our sandwiches, again "warmer Leberkäse", on a bench in the sun, we have a look at the Hundertwasser architecture, a main attraction of Plochingen.

Elaborate half-timbered facade of the city library in Plochingen

The gist of the plaque is: In the course of city renovations, 1992 - 1994, this business and residential center was created. The inner court, facade and rain tower were designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser .

Buildings and courtyard designed by Hundertwasser

A cafe in the Hundertwasser residential center

We ask a friendly gentleman on a bike, who showed interest for our touring bikes and panniers, the best way out of town on the way to Stuttgart. He is eager to help and rides with us for the next five kilometers to make sure we get on the bicycle path following the Neckar. What kindness. He also recommends we leave the Neckar at Esslingen to look at the town. Again we weren't aware of what Esslingen had to offer and thank him for his tip. Esslingen with its beautifully restored market square and the church of St. Dionys is well worth a visit and we are glad not to have missed it.

From here we follow the narrow tow path along the river on to Stuttgart.

I am thrilled at how easily we can ride into the heart of the city. Our first impressions of Stuttgart are of the lovely Schlossgarten, a beautiful park in Stuttgart's center. At the train station, the tourist information finds us a hotel in the vicinity - a bit expensive but centrally located and there is a garage for our bikes.

While we are eating at the local pizzeria dark grey clouds gather and it begins to pour. The restaurant, il Faggiolo, or the Bean, is located in the part of Stuttgart known as the "Bohnenviertel" or "Bean Quarter", one of the oldest parts of town. Its name comes from the diet of the poor population living here centuries ago.

We are feeling very content with a good day of cycling. My knees are holding out and I can pedal the hills - slowly but surely.

Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 264 km (164 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	2
Comment on this entry	Comment	0