June 8, 2008
From Karlsruhe to Kilstett: We cross the Rhine into France
It is so grey this morning I think it will be extraordinary luck if we don't get rained on within the hour. Instead it turns out to be a warm and sunny summer day.
Karlsruhe has a port on the Rhine, about five kilometers from the center of the city, and a maze of tunnels and bridges crossing the connecting canals and waterways. We don't quite find the direct route to the bike path along the Rhine and ride a considerable distance through small towns with bike paths, a mix of cinder paths and pavement, all very ridable and very flat. I have no idea how the GPS manages to chalk up over 200 vertical meters.
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Thirty kilometers to the south, we stop for a look at the Baroque palace in Rastatt and a bite to eat before we finally reach the banks of the Rhine and border to France.
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Ah, finally, the Rhine. We find a vacation atmosphere. The water sparkles and people are out for Sunday fun: sunning, boating, water-skiing, cycling and roller-blading.
We are now cycling on the German side of the river on paved roads through lush green next to the dam, and for variety part of the time we choose the unpaved crest of the dam with a view to the water.
At Greffern there is a ferry which will take us across the Rhine - and to France. Hurrah! Another 13 kilometers and we are in the next town, Gambsheim.
This is Alsace with its incredibly colorful half-timbered houses, potted flowers in abundance and immaculate streets. And on this sunny day we decide we shall finally overcome our reluctance to unpack our tent. Suddenly black clouds loom on the horizon accompanied by a threatening wind. Just a few days ago hail storms, floods and resulting deaths were in the news. We decide we don't want to risk that after all and look for a room.
The nearest accommodation is in Kilstett, another five kilometers to the south. Spurred on by threatening black clouds, fierce tailwinds and adrenaline, we travel the distance at record speed. We are relieved to find a room in the lovely Hotel La Couronne for 46 €. It never did rain, but it would have been a shame to have missed this little gem and its excellent restaurant. And what a meal and wine! The best meal for a long time.
Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 443 km (275 miles)
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