September 7, 2007
Durban - Douzens: The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind
After studying the map, Janos decides for today's ride we should veer off from the direct route and take the squiggly little road up into the hills to Fontjoncouse. I'm sure it will be a scenic ride.
The day starts off with more impressive backdrops and we are surprised to see that we first continue to descend until we reach the small river Berre and a tunnel which cuts through through the rocks flanking the road. Fortunately for us, an older road circumventing the massive boulders and tunnel is open to cyclists.
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The road up to Fontjoncouse is beautifully paved, there is no traffic and the views don't disappoint our expectations. From the town of Fontjoncouse we have a long and easy descent.
From St. Laurent we take the road to Fabrezan, a small town we passed through on the beginning of our trip. Ten days ago we stopped in the quiet town for our morning coffee, found shelter from the rain and not much else. Today at midday and with the sun shining, it is transformed. The main street is buzzing with life and the outdoor restaurants are full.
The rest of the day, as we continue north and then west, we are plagued by the wind, the worst so far. The countryside is still nice, but I'm not enjoying it. I am happy when we find a hotel, for 45, in Douzens. And what a sweet hotel. The rooms are decorated in what is really the epitome of kitsch, but done with so much loving care, that I can't dislike it. It's all pink and powder-blue and artificial flowers and lace and knickknacks.
The wind was very discouraging and I am wondering if I want to face it again tomorrow. Since we are now on the train line and we have cycled this area before, I see an obvious solution. Janos feels taking the train would be cheating so we decide to wait until tomorrow and see how the wind is blowing.
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