December 27, 2007
Siem Reap - Battambang: A day on the water
Up at 5:00, bus to the boat at 6:00. By the time the mini-bus has collected all its passengers it's full to bursting - our bags and bikes have been sent separately by tuk-tuk - and we are the last to arrive at the dock before departure. When we see that all the seats in the cabin are already occupied we are puzzled, but then we are shown to the roof where two dozen more passengers fit, no seats though.
The boat trip, scheduled to take four to five hours (which it does in the wet season), takes nine. Nine hours in the sun.
Leaving Chong Kneas we pass through wetlands or a shallow lake filled with water hyacinths and other floating plants - not to be recognized as the river Sangker which our boat is following to Battambang. Occasionally we run aground and churn up some mud. Our boatsman inquires of the local fisherman where we can pass. We're in a maze of open bits of water and floating vegetation, when it's too shallow, we have to turn around and try another path.
After several hours we reach a wide channel where the river heads northwest and we chug along at a brisker pace. All along we pass small houseboats, floating villages, fish nets.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
The last hours of the ride are the most difficult. An obvious course of the river again is no longer visible. Bushes and branches snap at the the boat (and passengers) - a scene from the 'African Queen'. We are now snaking our way, making hairpin turns that can only be negotiated with the help of a pole used by the boatsman at the bow of the boat. His work looks excruciating. Every once in a while he takes a dunk to cool off and then resumes his work.
Gradually the river defines itself as we head southwest, terra firma and rice paddies appear. The river banks to either side become higher. Now at every bend of the river I expect to see Battambang. A temple here and there, even a few mosques, houses, but no Battambang. Children are playing in the water and don't seem to tire of waving and shouting hello. They scream with delight at the waves the boat creates. Otherwise the waves from the boat traffic are quite detrimental to anything along the river banks.
At 4:30 we arrive with a good overdose of sun and sitting on the hard deck, but it has been an unforgettable, beautiful trip. And we are well taken care of, as always so far. Our bags and bikes are carried for us up the steep steps from the dock to the road. We saddle our steeds and find our way to the Royal Hotel where we treat ourselves to a comfortable room after a long day on the water.
Just a few words on the sweetness we have experienced from the people here. We are often addressed with 'fathermother' or 'papamama', a sign of respect, and given a dazzling, heart-warming smile. I must admit I am quite touched.
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 1 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |