February 29, 2008
Ko Yao Noi - Ao Leuk: Limestone mountains and rubber trees
We get an early boat and again have unreal views of karst islands, an incomparable seascape set against a grey sky with billowing clouds.
Our boat docks in Tha Len, a pier with some tuk-tuks waiting for arriving passengers and pick-ups ready to load the rubber mats which have been transported from the island. Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia together account for around 72% of all natural rubber production. On every ride, as we pass one rubber plantation after another we get proof of Thailand's contribution.
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Before we head inland we take a side road to Coconut Home Bungalows on the beach, a lovely setting - but we haven't even done one kilometer today. We sit for a while and promptly another cycle tourist chances by on this little dead-end dirt road, Charles from France. He has recently discovered the fascination of cycling in Southeast Asia and is full of enthusiasm. After a plate of fresh pineapple, watermelon and something resembling an apple but different we continue, heading for Au Leuk National Park which we have chosen as our destination for today.
What a gorgeous ride! One of the best of the trip. We have moderate hills, just enough to keep the ride interesting, and endless panoramas of karst outcroppings to all sides.
We stop for a rest and drink, luckily seated under a roof shelter of corrugated iron, when the black clouds we have been watching all afternoon open up and the rain comes down in buckets, but at least it's warm. Even under the sheltering roof it's hard to keep dry as the giant rain drops splash and spray when they hit the ground. After 30 minutes the show is over and we can continue.
With some help we are able to find the Ao Leuk Resort mentioned in the Lonely Planet. Yes, by the way we did find a replacement for our lost LP guide and a new map with much more detail as well as a few misleading errors. The woman who has stopped to help us doesn't speak English but has a talent for communication and is eager to help, something we have found to be very typical in this country (I mean the talent for communication and helpfulness, as for English, many more people in rural areas here speak English than we encountered in either Cambodia or China.)
The bungalows next to the headquarters of Ao Leuk Park, a large area including part of the bay coast which you must visit by boat, are pretty run down, but it's a place to stay. We will do the boat trip from another point.
The day ends with another shower while we are eating in a nearby restaurant. We are told this is not at all normal for this part of Thailand in early March.
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