July 21, 2006
Day 23: Marseillan - Capestang: Canal du Midi, yes or no?
We have just a few kilometers to Agde and after breakfast we're off to the Canal du Midi. We start at the unique round basin and lock of Agde and then take the old tow path next to the canal.
Endless rows of shady plane trees line either side of the canal, it's lovely ... but for the path. It's bumpy, narrow, has big potholes, roots ... help, all those things I don't like. The going is very slow, and as picturesque as the plane trees and canal are, that's all we see. We hardly get any views of the countryside around us.
We consult our map and see there are plenty of small roads for us to take. We get off the tow path at the next bridge and enjoy asphalt again. After a few more kilometers, at Port Cassalières, a bicycle path following the canal to Béziers is signposted. There are many joggers and other cyclists on the asphalt path, popular among the population of Béziers, and we give it another try.
It's very pleasant and we follow it to the Nine Locks of Fonséranes. "This is the most remarkable construction on the Canal du Midi, lying at the foot of Béziers. It comprises eight oval water basins (specific to the Canal du Midi) and seven locks (there once were nine locks, hence the name, when the canal connected directly to the river Orb), which make it possible to climb 21.5 meters over a total length of more than 300 meters."
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We follow the tow path a bit further, at Colombiers we again resort to small country roads. I like the Canal du Midi, but not for long-distance cycling. In the distance we see the ridges of the Montagne Noire which we will have to cross before we get to Durfort. We have also changed our direction, we are now heading northwest which means headwinds from here on!
The camping municipal in Capestang is the best campground so far. It's small, shady, half empty and very moderately priced at 9 €. We unpack our provencal tablecloth and the mattresses and have a refreshing nap under the trees. In the heat of the past few days it had been difficult to recuperate after the day's ride. Here it is also less humid. Another plus point for the campground is the pretty town of Capestang itself.
In the evening we ride up the hill to the old town of Capestang and under the plane trees in the big square behind the church we write our journals, snack on nuts and watch the children play.
Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,346 km (836 miles)
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