Over the Cascades

June 15, 1981 to June 16, 1981

Rockport to Pateros

Statistics:

June 15, 1981 - Rockport to Washington Pass - 70 miles (Paul's Birthday);

June 16, 1981 - Washington Pass to Pateros - 67 miles.

Description of Events:

June 15, 1981: My journal describes this day as one of the most challenging we experienced on the trip, so far.

During the night, a raccoon stole our bread. The theft delayed our breakfast-making until a local store opened and we could replenish it. While waiting, I made a pot of hot tea and sat on the bank of the Skagit River, enjoying the peaceful morning. That alone time, listening to the water flowing by, is one of the enduring pleasant memories of the trip.

By the time we made breakfast, had everything cleaned up, and packed it all away, we got going a lot later than we had planned. We knew it would be a long day with some climbing to be done. It looked promising at the outset. The sun was shining and the temperature was warming up, for a change. We made good time getting through Marblemount and Newhalem, where we stopped for lunch.

After Newhalem, the road (SR-20) began to climb. We were surrounded by spectacular snow-capped peaks as we passed by Gorge Lake, Diablo, and later on Ross Lake. A bit before reaching the Ross Dam, we stopped to talk with a retired couple who were traveling in an RV. Besides giving us some good information about where we were headed, they made each of us delicious peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. The sandwiches were wonderful and in Paul's case, the closest he was going to get to birthday cake today.

Paul, on his birthday, climbing through the Cascades.

Our photo was taken by the friendly retired couple who made us PB & J sandwiches overlooking Ross Lake.

After having moved on, the wind picked up and our luck with the weather began to change. About halfway to Rainy Pass, we learned why it got its name. We continued climbing, eventually reaching the snow line, where it became colder and the rain was mixed with snowflakes. By the time we had reached the top of Washington Pass, we had climbed for 41 miles, about half of it in the rain.

The scene, as weather conditions began to deteriorate.

The summit of Washington Pass, at sunset.

We had reached the top of Washington Pass after 8:00 PM. There was snow on the ground and the air was filled with a rain and snow mix. By this time, we were soaked but (at least I) didn't notice how cold it was because all of the climbing had kept us warm. As we began to descend, our speed picked up considerably and all of the warmth I had been generating was replaced with an icy chill. I began to shiver, uncontrollably. Since there was nowhere to stop, we continued downward.

About 6 miles down and with my teeth chattering, we saw a sign for the Lone Fir Campground and turned in. We found a campsite where I hoped to get a fire going. The only problem was no dry wood anywhere! My next move was to get the tent set up and get into my sleeping bag to try and get warm. However, I was fumbling around so much that normally simple tasks were difficult because I was shivering so much.

I knew I had to get warm, so I walked down to the next campsite where a couple was inside of their warm RV. After knocking on their door, it opened and I asked if they had any dry wood. They looked bewildered and didn't seem to respond at all. Perhaps I was rambling incoherently by that time. Dejected, I returned to our campsite and resumed trying to get my wet clothes off and to crawl into my bag. About halfway through that task, someone yelled that the fire was going. I heard that beautiful sound of burning wood crackling and popping. Our benefactor was the fellow in the RV that I had appealed to a few minutes earlier. He must've realized that I was in distress and came out to help. Thank goodness.

By the time I got the wet clothes off and got into some dry ones, Paul and our neighbor were chatting by the fire like old friends. The dry clothes had already made me warmer and the fire did the rest. I thanked the man profusely. We didn't get his name but he is definitely another hero from our trip, to whom we are deeply grateful. He also gave us each a cup of hot coffee, which might have been one of the best cups of coffee I ever had, before or since.

The fellow eventually returned to his RV and to his wife while we remained by the fire for a while longer. I made a pot of hot herbal tea and consumed the whole thing while practically standing in the fire. Paul had to tell me to back up so I wouldn't burn the tips of my shoes. When the tea was done, I got into my sleeping bag and fell into a deep (and warm) sleep.

June 16, 1981: When we woke up the next morning, the sun was trying to poke its way through the clouds and the temperature seemed to be warming up. We packed up quickly to head down the mountain where we were told it would be warmer, sunnier, and dryer.

Because it was much warmer on the leeward side of the mountains, we stopped to remove a layer or two of clothing.

By the time we reached to bottom of the pass, on the eastern side of the mountain, it felt like Summer time.

We started out fully clothed and layered but on the way down, we could feel the air warming rapidly. The snow disappeared and the vegetation changed drastically from rain forest to more prairie-like and open. At the bottom, we stopped to remove some layers because it was now very warm. Instead of wet forest, we were now surrounded by dry grasslands. The change, within the span of a few short miles, was absolutely amazing... and welcome.

When we reached Winthrop, we stopped for 3 hours to dry out our clothes and camping equipment. In this town that appeared to have been preserved in the Old Western style, we also got some sustenance and were able to decompress, although we didn't know it as such back then. It was a good break and we got going again at around 1:30 PM.

Highway 153 was our afternoon as it followed the Methow River through apple growing country. The orchards were on the adjacent hillsides, likely helped by irrigation from the Methow. There were some memorable places along this route. The river bank in Carlton, a beautiful lawn in Methow, and tremendous wide open spaces between Methow and Pateros.

On the outskirts of Pateros, the Methow met the Columbia River at a beautiful spot that seemed to lay alongside the road. We decided to camp on the river bank right where the two rivers met. It was an awesome spot where each river was flowing in a different direction. This was another great and memorable campsite.

I made campfire stew with French bread for dipping. We were now warm, dry, and loving it. The Grand Coulee Dam lies ahead for tomorrow and we are excited to see it.

Today's ride: 137 miles (220 km)
Total: 1,766 miles (2,842 km)

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