Çıldır

September 30, 2023

We had chosen the wrong hotel in Akhalkalki. There was a party in the function room that carried on until about eleven o'clock with bass and drum heavy contemporary Georgian music. So sleep came late and I was short of a few hours sleep when my alarm went off this morning.

My first worry was that it would be a battle to find someone to unlock the storeroom in which our bicycles had spent the night but thankfully it only took a few minutes. Once on the road, under a completely cloudless sky, we first headed off in a bad direction having taken thd advice of the night watchman at the hotel. After discovering that the bridge over the river that we had to cross was closed we reverted to the route suggested by Google.

The ruins of Akhalkalaki Fortress dating to the 11th century. On the route suggested by Google.

The road was pretty busy for the first fifteen kilometers, lots of heavy goods vehicles in both directions, but after that it was wonderfully quiet and we enjoyed a great ride. It was another day of eight hundred meters of climbing but the pleasant weather and lovely countryside made it worthwhile.

We had four meaningful climbs, saving the biggest for last. I think this is on the second.

Once again the countryside reminded me of South Africa. This could be in the highlands of my home province, the Eastern Cape.

The road surface was pretty good until the last few kilometers before the border where we had some rough gravel and some road works. After crossing the border we were treated to great Turkish roads with a wide shoulder. Also great Turkish drivers - the Georgian drivers are what caused us to escape that country. For some or other reason, the Georgian drivers seem better behaved when out of their own country.

Trucks queuing for more than six kilometers on the Turkish side of the border.

Despite the cloudless start to the day, thunderstorms were predicted and the clouds started building through the ride. By the time we got to the last climb of the day things were starting to look ominous with lightening flashing in the distance and the occasional sound of thunder. Somehow the storms held off until we made it to our digs for the night.

Starting the last climb. A big storm ahead of us.

Worrying about the lightening, I was keen to get over the climb as quickly as possible but Leigh was intent on enjoying the views. It was with a feeling of relief that we made it to the top with the storm above us having moved away.

While taking a summit pic a truck pulled up with two French cycle tourists, Max and Bonnie, on the back. They had accepted a lift up the climb and my heart swelled with the thought that my self proclaimed non athletic wife who is twice their age had done it on her on steam.

The only hotel in Çıldır looked like a dive so we cycled a few kays out of town to the expensive option. For tomorrow we have an apartment booked for two nights in the next town, Arpaçay. The Springboks play their last pool game late tomorrow night and, knowing that we won't sleep well after the game, we decided to plan a rest day around the it.

Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,815 km (1,127 miles)

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