Wildcamp at Rio Tristen - The thirteenth step ... Six months in South America - CycleBlaze

February 2, 2023

Wildcamp at Rio Tristen

From Tolhuin to Ushuaia the road bends westwards into the prevailing, and currently predicted, winds. We were expecting two days of hard cycling over this section and the plan was to make it as far as possible on the first of those days to make the run into Ushuaia as easy as possible. At the very least we wanted to make it over Paso Garibaldi, a climb of about four hundred meters that lies almost exactly halfway to Ushuaia from Tolhuin. 

When we woke up, feeling refreshed after a good night's sleep, it was to no sign of wind at all. It was also slightly less cold than it has been lately and we were quite upbeat as we tucked into the simple breakfast laid on by Eguardo. Tim and Jo came down to breakfast just as we were finishing up and we were on the road soon after that.

Leaving the hostel. Eguardo wanted a picture of us.
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It was great to be cycling in excellent weather again. The sun was out for the first time since Puerto Natales and whatever breeze there might have been seemed to be coming, contrary to all predictions, from the east. With the good weather we were in two minds as to cover as much distance as possible before it might change adversely or to simply take our time and enjoy it while it lasted.

At a mirador over Lago Fagnano we were greeted by am overfamiliar Patagonian Grey Fox (Lycalopex griseus). It wasn't interested in me and only begged from Leigh. She surmised that most of the folk who feed it are women.
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A bit further on we stopped to talk to Jose from Argentina.  He had traveled the length of Ruta Cuarenta southwards from Bolivia to Rio Gallegos and then on to Ushuaia on the RN3.  He was now heading north to Buenos Aires on the RN3 and then another one and a half thousand kilometers back to his home time.

With Jose. Respect!
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As we reached Lago Escondido we stopped to top up our water at the police checkpoint. Tim and Jo caught up with us here. They had initially planned to camp at Lago Escondido but with the weather being so good had also decided to get over the pass today. Lunch of leftover curry was taken on the roadside above the lake and then we tackled the pass.

Lago Escondido from the eastern side.
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Lago Escondido from the top of the pass.
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The climb was handled quite easily, the most difficult part being finding a place for Leigh to have a nature break. Tim arrived at the top of the pass as we were about to leave and we agreed to meet at a site at the Rio Tristen marked on iOverlander about sixteen kilometers further on. 

Our campsite for the night.
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The informal camping area here at Rio Tristen is almost perfect apart from its close proximity to the busy Ruta 3. We have enjoyed a pleasant and relaxing late afternoon and evening here. The weather has been magnificent almost the whole day with only the last nine kilometers being into a headwind. We have only thirty kilometers left to reach Ushuaia and it hardly matters how good or bad tomorrow's weather may be.

Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 6,567 km (4,078 miles)

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