I actually did do all of that trip in 2014 you said would be better by bike. I did a loop over Lemhi Pass from MT (which you would love because Lewis and Clark went over it!!), up to Salmon, over to Challis, down to Craters, then back over through the creepy nuclear testing areas, then up the Lemhi valley again, through Salmon and then over Lost Trail Pass to Wisdom, MT. I did the canyon and pass climbs early in those days before the RV traffic came out. It was all very spectacular and really cool basin and range geology - I don't remember it feeling particularly unsafe thru any of it. And I thought it was immensely cool you could see the tear in the earth's surface from the Borah Peak earthquake all down that valley. And of course, Craters was awesome - especially knowing it is all just dormant and that is one of the most seismically active areas of the state. Here's a link to the Lewis and Clark pass, so you'll be enticed to go back and ride it some day: https://rambleoutyonder.org/2018/01/01/montana-2014-part-1-day-60-clark-canyon-reservoir-salmon-id-a-gnarly-downhill/

I am surprised at the low key grave for Hemingway - glad you got to make the pilgrimage. And I sure hope you used climate control in that motel room :-) The campsite looks chilly... the time of year you start looking for sites that will get the sun longest in the eve and earliest in the morning, for sure. Enjoy Craters... I really lived that place up as a geology nerd. Even took my mom back there in 2017 as it's pretty unique in its geology.

I love the road in your video - but it doesn't look too bike friendly. Too bad.
Glad you're back, looking forward to more.

I’ve always felt like there was an echo of Hemingway in your journals, to be honest. Tough guys just write like that, I guess.

Yup, it's a Hemingway quote.

I thought the same thing the whole time I was driving on Highway 93 -- "Damn, I wish I was biking this." It is beautiful, but it's probably not the best road for cycling due to many sections with sharp curves and very small shoulder (if any).

Thanks for that great information, Henry. I intend to spend at least a day and a half at Craters of the Moon, biking and hiking. Now I have a list of highlights from someone who has been there.

Hooray, an addendum! And is that really a Hemingway quote? I don’t remember reading it before.

Incredible color! No reason for feeling foolish about posting it.

We’ll, this makes me doubly envious now - a Caribou Coffee bike shirt, AND a dog to welcome you home!

Yippee, I get to continue reading about your cycle adventures!

Great write-up! The church of the great outdoors is the best! I’m going to miss miss reading your journal but look forward to your next trip.

I’ve driven that route on US 93 too, and ended up driving through the COFTHMNMP. Both spectacular and wished I was riding the entire time. I look forward to you adventure.

I rode through Craters of the Moon a few years ago, and it is very cool. If you stay at the Lava Flow Campground, try to get site 13; it's a cozy little pocket of flat ground surrounded by basalt rocks, perfect if it's windy or you just want privacy. I hope you have a day to spend in the park, riding the Loop Road, stopping at all of the overlooks, and taking a few short hikes. Scrambling to the top of Inferno Cone gives you great views, and hike through some lava tube caves if you're not claustrophobic. The Tree Molds trail was a bit disappointing (I've seen much better tree molds, left by molten lava hardening around tree trunks that burn away to leave a hole, in Hawaii, Washington, and Oregon). But everything else there was great.
If you get a chance to ride through Arco after Craters of the Moon, take it; it's got some interesting history, architecture, and white numbers painted on the basalt cliffs (LOTS of white numbers).

Holy chimichanga, great comment!

Holy tamale! Great journal!