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Bruce tells a very similar story from 1979, it was so difficult then that he almost decided to never go back. But we're glad that he did, 20 years later.
Food is still pretty touchy in Myanmar, as far as I'm concerned. We ate well at a fancy restaurant with our friends, everything was clean and delicious. But out on the road we were really careful and yet still ended up getting sick. I do like Burmese food, but not as much as Thai or Vietnamese.
In 1986, the conventional behaviour was to purchase a bottle of Johnny Walker Red and a carton of 555s at the duty-free shop as you left Bangkok (I did this against my conscience since I am virulently anti- smoking) and trade them for black-market kyats on arrival in Rangoon. One fellow I ended up sharing a taxi with did this while waiting in the line to do his official exchange.
On arrival, you were required to purchase a certain amount of kyats at the official rate and this was recorded on a sheet. All accommodation and transportation purchases were also to be recorded on this sheet to ensure that you exchanged enough money officially to cover your expenses while in Burma and then this sheet was to be submitted as part of the exit process.
It was easy enough to use your black market kyats for food and souvenirs, though I have to say that food wasn't always easy to find for tourists. Burma at that time is the only country I've visited where I didn't enjoy the food. But then, you were only allowed to stay 1 week and your first and last nights were required to be in Rangoon.
That 27 kyat note would have been an incredible souvenir, no wonder you were upset. We did see old banknotes for sale in antique shops now and then, though. Did you have to buy FEC's? Those were still around in the early 2000s, and really added to the currency fun. It was a real jolt on this trip to change money at an actual, (non-shady-black-market-gold-shop) bank/ATM.
5 years agoJust reading this now. I had no idea "the astrologers told the government to change all currencies to multiples of nine". When I visited Burma (as it was then called) in 1986, I received a 27 kyat note in change at some point and saved it. What a weird denomination! I am still upset that it was stolen out of my bag later in my trip, more so than about the $50 US note that was also taken. At the time, the official exchange rate was about 7 kyat to the USD and the black market rate was around 18.
5 years agoPlanting little seeds in people's minds, who have never considered cycle touring before, is a great thing to do. As you maybe encouraged those boys more than you think, we, too, always encourage everyone we talk to about our trips to just go for it. If we can do it anyone can! We are always quick to point out that we had never even ridden around the block with fully loaded bikes before we flew to Burma to start our trip. On top of that, I was 60 years old.
5 years agoI love this post! When you 2 go on that camping trip with Kat and Willie this spring/summer, I think you should bring a copy and read it to them while sitting by the campfire.
Wouldn't it be cool if the 100th bicycle touring monkey could be identified and honored with a 100th Monkey Award?!
This makes me think of a conversation that Ron and I had with 2 kids at a campground in Ft. Thompson, SD. They were riding their BMX bikes and couldn't believe that we were riding our bikes across the country. We told them they could do it, too. And maybe, just maybe, someday they will...
This photo is very cool ..
and I think it would give Mr. Grumby hope that perhaps he does not have the Most Diminished Calves(??)
Two US cyclists found in Thailand, lying on ground and giggling hysterically as wide-eyed zebra puppies licked their faces.
5 years agoLove the 3-ft potato chip analogy. I look forward to hearing my first falling teak leaf!
Glad you didn't get decapitated by the poacher. Or .. maybe you DID get decapitated, and that's why you didn't hear any falling trees(??)
Your heads were probably magically re-attached by the Spirit of the Stealth Mimosa.
It's a loooong way to the ocean from this spot, they'd better not be octopus tentacles!
5 years agoSneaky!
5 years agoWhat? Really??
Are you sure those aren't octopus tentacles?
Stunning!
5 years agoBeautiful kitty .. love those eyes!
5 years ago
I remember many narrow sidewalks in Rangoon when I was there in 1986. The walkways were narrow because there were chain-link fences installed about 2 metres from the walls of colonial-era buildings, presumably to keep pedestrians out of the path of things falling from the facades of the unmaintained buildings.
5 years ago