Of course we were told about the flood basalt fields when I was a student but there's nothing to compare with firsthand observation.

Moving from those into the Bitterroot and Absaroka mountains was really interesting. It also reminded me of how long ago I studied all of that, what a lousy field man I am, and how much I've forgotten or never really learned and understood.

In 2015 I was told that the locals called this "Cardiac Hill" because it could induce heart attacks for cyclists. I recall it being very hot and a challenging climb.

A fellow Geologist, obviously! I'm just now reading and catching up on your journal - I rode the Transam in 2015 so it's fun to follow along knowing what you will encounter ahead.

For a new touring bicycle, I'd like to suggest a Rodriguez Bike from Seattle. They have 50 (?) standard sizes. We drove there in 2019, expecting to order a custom bike for Jacinto's odd body. Instead, he fit one of their standard bikes! He has been happy with the Rodriguez. That happens to be what Scott Anderson rides also. It's American made, that feels good.

Good call and Bravo! i know you bike to have fun, so I’m glad you had the integrity to stick to that. Your journal has given us some vicarious bike touring in beautiful scenery. I hope we can get together for some of those tall tales and a ride when we can.
That’ll do.

It looks like a mini Hoover dam!

I agree, but it was a surprise to see what it actually ran to. I've always thought of bike touring as a relatively inexpensive way to travel, and certainly there are others who do it more frugally than I did. I met a fellow who had been on the road for two months, for example, and who had not yet spent a dime on lodging expenses. (I got the sense that he's quite adept at finding ways to game a system, mooch, or simply freeload but the fact remains that he hadn't invested a lot in keeping a roof over his head.)

I've often read that it's better to spend money on experiences than on "things". At less than $150 per day average (excluding Bozeman, and not subtracting what you would have spend if you had stayed home), I imagine that you got your money's worth from this experience, since it was so positive overall.

Thanks Dani. You guys have been awesome! The end of your own incredible journey is near, too. I hope you aren't switching into a "just get there and get it done" mindset. That takes a lot of the joy out of it.

Thanks Scott. I've been pondering that myself. A week, maybe two, every now and again (a la Greg Garceau's "Touring Differently" approach) may be a thing.

I can't really blame Schwalbe for the final indignity- I think it was caused by the sharp edge of a pothole that I couldn't avoid, just as I exited a bridge. I tried to lift the front wheel but the rear hit the hole VERY hard, and there's no bunny-hopping (at least not by *me*) a bike that weighs in between 80 and 90 pounds.

I'm thinking about what to get to replace Odysseus, if and when the time comes. A bespoke Seven is high on the list, as is an equally made-to-measure Waterford. Off-the-rack Trek 520? Something else? Time will tell.

I've not ridden the entire GAP but have covered the C&O Canal (nearly) end-to-end a few times, and have covered all of it, in segments, even more. I've enjoyed it but find that it, like that stretch of U.S. 12 between Lochsa Lodge and Kooskia, gets rather monotonous after a while. But on a hot August day the shade is tough to beat.

"slipstick"... that's a new slang term for me. I like it!

I was glad to see the tone of the last few paragraphs, and the thought that you still see a place for bike touring in your future, if not of the heroic scale of this one. Be sure to take us along next time too.

Seeing that wlipstick makes me nostalgic. For years I carried one with me nearly as constantly as I keep an iPad with me now.

Congrats on your ride, Keith! And kudos to you for stopping when it ceased to be fun. As far as I am concerned, the only metric for success in bike touring is the degree to which the tourer is satisfied with their experience.