September 2, 2012
On to Verdun: I am suprised by hills
The dining last night was extremely elegant. The tables all had starched linen table clothes and were set with the finest of Saffordshire China. It always amuses me how this is whipped away before any food touches it and you eat your meal on Chinese white china. The meal itself was equally elegant. There were four courses staring off with the speciality of the house which included fois grois and other beautifully served delicacies, a lamb dish for the next course, a perfectly ripened brie then Crème Caramel flavoured with orange and cardamen and all washed down by a wine from the Lorraine area. We will eat more modestly tonight.
My general rule of thumb is that a road that follows a river will not have a lot of steep hills. This is not true if you are riding from Inor to Verdun. There was one flat area for about 10km and the rest of the time it was up and down all day. The steepest hills were 10% gradient and often were quite long but at least you are always rewarded by an exciting downhill. Ken described it ‘as a bit lumpy’ – I think this was to stop me moaning too much! Again all along the way you are reminded of the carnage that has occurred along the Meuse. You are passing many French War cemeteries, the occasional American one and one very austere looking German one with plain metal cross each representing 2 people.
I was pretty glad to get to Verdun as we burst on to la Quai de Londres. It was alive with activity on this sunny Sunday and there were boats tied up all along it. I spotted the Hotel Coq Tardie, it looked most inviting but out of our price range. Ken said “Go in and ask”. I did and it was in the price range and we have a beautiful room, big for a French hotel room, stuffed with antiques and looking out over our window box of geraniums at the river and Quai. A shower, a beer on the Quai, a walk up to the 10th century Romanesqe Cathedral and we are feeling pretty content with life. It will be crepes tonight for dinner at the nearby creperie.
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Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,874 km (1,164 miles)
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