March 6, 2012
Day 10: To Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument
The previous two days I was on the road until past sunset. I need a shorter day today. The temperature was warm overnight, maybe 55F. I left the glass-strewn campsite at 8:50 and pedaled back into Ajo to take pictures and use the laundromat.
Downtown Ajo is laid out like a traditional Mexican town, with a central plaza surrounded by stores and the church. Not much activity in the plaza-about half the storefronts are vacant.
I got another gallon of water from the automated water kiosk that sells water purified by reverse osmosis. They are common in Arizona. The water is better than salty well water. $1 for 5 gallons or 25 cents for 1 gallon.
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After the long laundry stop I finally got on the road, going south to the village of Why. Into a moderate headwind, gradual uphill. There's not much in Why. I had 3 slices of fresh pizza at a store.
By the time I left Why the wind was very strong from the southwest. Going south was painfully slow. I departed Why at 12:30 and arrived at the Organ Pipe Cactus campground at 4:30. 4 hours to go 25 miles.
South of Why the highway has no shoulder, but traffic is light. About 1 in 5 vehicles on the road is Border Patrol.
The scenery is nice, though. The desert becomes increasingly lush as I go south, slightly uphill. With many Saguaro cactus, Ocotillo, Cholla, and eventually Organ Pipe cactus.
The sky was sunny and the temperature was 80F. But it was actually kind of cool when going into a 30 mph headwind.
The park's campground is 2 uphill miles off the highway. Tent sites are on the outer row of the huge 208-site campground, with unobstructed desert views. My $12 campsite is surrounded by cactus that is taller than me. I'm in a cactus forest, deep in the Sonoran desert at 2000 feet (600m) elevation.
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I was surprised to learn that the campground has showers. National parks almost never have showers. And there is no obvious source of water on this hilltop in the desert. I wonder if the water is trucked in.
It was an enchanting evening in the cactus forest.
To the east are the Ajo mountains which I will see up close tomorrow.
To the south is a downhill vista for 5 miles towards Mexico. I couldn't see much during the day, but at night I could see the lights of Sonoyta, Sonora.
To the west was a cactus skyline with spectacular twilight colors.
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Today was supposed to be a rest day. But the headwind turned it into a strenuous day after all.
Tomorrow will be sort of a rest day, but the weather forecast calls for colder, cloudier weather.
Distance: 39.7 mi. (63.5 km)
Climbing: 903 ft. (274 m)
Average Speed: 8.7 mph (13.9 km/h)
Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 581 miles (935 km)
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