September 11, 2015
Kigali: rest day: Genocide Memorial
"Why is the American Flag at half mast?" as we pass by the American Embassy. "Oh, it's 9/11". We are on the bus and headed for the Kigali Genocide Memorial.
In 1994, we cycled from Capetown to Nairobi. We were in Malawi when we met backpackers who had been gorilla trekking in Rwanda when their guide told them to turn and run. Not knowing why, they ran.
As time went on we learned more and more about what was happening in Rwanda. This was in the pre-internet and Facebook days, Patrick listened to news on a shortwave radio and our mail was still collected at Post Office Poste Restantes. We were mystified as why the world did nothing. "Once again" genocide was happening in a "never again" world.
The Genocide Memorial is very well done, starting with the history of Rwanda post WWI with Belgium Colonization when the distinctions made based on race (Tutsi or Hutu) to divide was established. "We had lived in peace for many centuries, but now the divide between us began." If you had more than 10 cows you were a Tutsi, if less than 10 cows, a Hutu. The Catholic Church also played a role in establishing that Tutsis were superior. It's a much too complicated history to explain here. http://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-26875506
What occurred in those 100 days starting in April, 1994, was government organized killing of 1 million people (Tutsi and Hutu sympathizers). "The most shocking part of the tragedy was the willingness with which ordinary Hutu--men, women and children joined in on the killings." Those in power exploit the minority to control the majority so they can stay in power.
The displays continue by personalizing the memorial with pictures and clothing of the victims and ending with reminders of other genocides. In 1915-18 Armenia, in 1939-45 Nazi Germany, in 1975-79 Cambodia, in 1990s the Balkans. We can all look at today's news and see it happening in Syria.
When will we reach the "never again"?
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