Around Lake Annecy - Poking Around Europe 6.0 - CycleBlaze

May 9, 2019

Around Lake Annecy

So Much Fun to be Had

Today was another totally unexpected day. We had so much fun. Some of it was the kind of fun we expected to have but both lunch and our ride were unexpected fun. 

We went to bed secure in the knowledge of a reasonable weather forecast and a ride around Lake Annecy and up over Col de la Forclaz. Well, something happened overnight and we woke up to unremitting rain. Rain that carried on throughout a long, leisurely breakfast and numerous croissants and cappuccinos. The online forecast was completely different too, and not in a good way. So we went for a walk. 

We went to Barbich to track down the beautiful Typhanie, Kelly’s friend.  The restaurant was closed but they welcomed us in regardless and we mastered the art of the two cheek kiss French greeting. It was just so great to meet someone in France who knew our almost daughter in law. We were messaging Kelly in real time. Modern technology certainly is amazing. 

Typhanie is an absolute sweetheart. Such a pleasure to meet her. We seem to match the wall.
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Here is Cristèle, who took the previous picture, ran the restaurant and made us feel so absolutely welcome despite the fact that Barbich was still fermé.
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We took our leave as they were busy getting ready for the day. We wandered through the old town, staying under eaves when possible and looking for a water bottle. We were a fail in the water bottle department, perhaps because we were having so much fun looking at tortes and tartes and cakes and savouries. Today was shaping up to be all about the food. We even picked up an Opinal knife with bicycles going up a mountain on the handle. How could we not buy it?  It will be our picnic knife. 

This had our names written all over it.
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Well, it was still raining, and all this admiring of food made us hungry so we went back to Barbich. What a superb decision that was. Out of the tourist zone, Cristèle to explain the process to us and the most amazing food. Absolutely amazing. 

I loved the concept. A small menu, done superbly and delivered by the chef. We were able to have another visit with Typhanie and we lingered over lunch until at least 2 PM. We had the most wonderful time. I still marvel that we were having a real time conversation with Kelly, who is engaged to our son in Canada, while she is in Sydney Australia, while eating lunch in Annecy France, which was being prepared by her girlfriend Typhanie. It was very special. Very special. 

Cristèle with customers.
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Typhanie waving to us. She and Cristèle were so good to us.
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Serious chef conversation. This staff seemed to love what they were doing.
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We had an appetizer, a main course and dessert. This blog really is shaping up to be all about the food. What better to do on a rainy day than eat?

Our appy on the top shelf. Coconut milk, and several other flavours that were divine.
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Our main course, hand delivered to the table by the chef. It was swoon worthy. That is cauliflower, not potatoes and pork and and kale and oh my. Just so good. I would have licked my plate but didn’t want to embarrass Kelly.
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My dessert. Strawberries and cream and lemon. I wanted to lick that too.
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Keith’s dessert, apple crumble pie avec caramel. Perfection.
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If you find yourself in Annecy you must have lunch at Barbich.
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We staggered out of there feeling like we wouldn’t need to eat again for a week. An absolutely awesome experience. We were so full, and it was STILL raining that we decided we would take my bike to the local shop for a quick look at the derailleur and then have some nap time. 

Instead, we found our bike mechanic in the hotel garage. Fresh off their bikes, soaking wet and happy to take a look. My bike is now running like a well looked after machine.
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They are from the Netherlands, and bike packing. They look much sleeker than we do. We hope to see them at breakfast so I can spell their names properly and then will edit the blog.
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They hope to come to Canada, and have our contact information. That would be so much fun. So with no need to head to a bike shop we headed back upstairs for that nap. Keith looked out the window and saw sun!  An opening to ride around the lake. Who cares that it was 4 in the afternoon. We threw on our biking clothes and went down to the garage. By the time we were wheeling the bikes onto the street it was raining again. We decided to go for it anyway. 

We started in the rain, and so late in the day that we knew before we began that Col de la Forclaz was not going to happen, but tomorrow is supposed to be a good day, so we assumed that the wee bit of sunshine we saw was the beginning of the clearing weather. You already know the gods were laughing at us, don’t you?  We both wanted to go for it though, so off we went. 

In the beginning. What kind of idiot goes out with this kind of sky and doesn’t put on her rainpants and booties? The overly optimistic kind!
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Things did improve for a time, and my tights were starting to dry out.
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The track around the lake is pretty wonderful. You are still on the road in spots but our impression is that they are working on completing the loop.
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Pretty amazing infrastructure.
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When we passed the turn up to Col de la Forclaz we felt a pang, but it was far too late in the day to consider it. We were almost at the end of the lake, feeling pretty happy about the improving weather and Keith said something to the effect of...to dispel any suggestion that we might be wimps you should point out in the blog that we set out, voluntarily, in the late afternoon to cycle around Lake Annecy under what one could only describe as brutal conditions.  The pounding rain drops and near gale force winds were simply no match to our drive and determination...he, of course, was wildly exaggerating and making me laugh. 

Don’t tempt fate folks. The words were no sooner out of his mouth than one of those mountain storms blew in. We were at exactly the opposite end of the lake, as far from our fluffy white duvet as we were going to be today. The wind piped up and it started to pour. We booked it back towards Annecy as fast as we could, having an amazingly good time as the whole thing was so hilarious. It was a basically flat track, we were unloaded and we could fly.  I had to stay well behind Keith as he had a remarkable rooster tail behind his bike. He couldn’t believe I didn’t have my rainpants on...I told him I was a birdbrain...or I like wet underwear. Take your pick. He picked birdbrain hehe. 

The final photo, as we didn’t want to expose phones or cameras to the rain. You can see how socked in it was.
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Scott AndersonI see we have no reason to complain about the teensy bit of rain we saw here.
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2 years ago

The rain let up just as we reached Annecy. I swear my shoes weighed a half a kilo each when I took them off as they had absorbed so much water. We have one of those amazing towel warmers in the bathroom and shoes, socks and gloves are drying in there now. We loved every minute of the ride. 

These heated towel racks are a bike tourers dream after a rainy ride.
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We have, of course, eaten again. The weather forecast is good for tomorrow so we will see. I am not believing anything until I see it with my own eyes in the morning since it is 9:30 PM and absolutely bucketing with rain out there. We are moving on to Aix les Bains tomorrow, regardless. We are looking forward to it. 

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Patrick O'HaraHi there.

Patrick O'Hara and Susanna Mulligan here writing from Vancouver BC. Not sure how we are going to keep up with you all on tour from our neck of the woods in Cascadia....The Andersons, you two, Jaquie Gaudet and the Grampies (although their tour prematurely ended). Anyways, enjoying following along on your journey. When we rode the loop around the lake in 2017, we had much better weather that you! Reading your blog is putting butterflys in our stomachs for our upcoming tour in July and August. Tail Winds!
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5 years ago
Keith ClassenTo Patrick O'HaraHi Patrick - thank you for your note. Yes there seems be be quite a few of us from the same neck of the woods. It really is fun to follow folks on their various rides ... a real feeling of community. In my research the other day I came across your blog of your trip here in 2017 so it was fun to check it out. Looking forward to following along with you in July - August.
Keith
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5 years ago
Jacquie GaudetI can tell you're from Victoria and not Vancouver! Repeat after me: touring bikes need fenders! They help keep your shoes and backside dry and your partner's allow you to draft (though not as close as in the dry).
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5 years ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Jacquie GaudetHehehe. We do get less rain than Vancouver for sure. We both have fenders (wouldn’t tour without them) but the little rubber flange on Keith’s rear fender fell off and that may have been the problem. That and the sheer amount of rain! We are in Aix les Bains and staying another night. Keith is still not completely over his cold. Very frustrating.
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5 years ago

And the Relive. I wish it could show the rain!

https://www.relive.cc/view/2354257786

Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 460 km (286 miles)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 10
Comment on this entry Comment 5
Steve Miller/GrampiesYour enthusiasm in the description of Barbich was energizing and much welcome from the depths of 2021 lockdown!
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3 years ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Steve Miller/Grampiesp.s. Barbich remains open for takeout!
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3 years ago
Rich FrasierI just love this journal!. You have such a great positive attitude - makes me want to get out on a new adventure!
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3 years ago
Keith ClassenThanks for your note Rich - we are glad you enjoyed the journal. It’s certainly nice for us to periodically go back and refresh our memories and remind ourselves how fortunate we are to travel in this manner. We are looking forward to another bike trip in Europe once we able and comfortable to travel. Certainly a different world today..... I liked the old one better.
All the best! Keith
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3 years ago
Kathleen ClassenHow wonderful to hear from you. We are missing bike touring but feel very, very fortunate to live in such a beautiful part of the world to ride this out. There seems to be light at the end of the tunnel, although some days it seems the tunnel keeps getting longer. We are going to do some short door to door tours this summer on the island...I am thinking I may blog about them for information for anyone who comes to Vancouver Island. We can’t wait to get back to Europe. Fantastic tracks, amazing history and lovely distances between charming bed and breakfasts. I long for it, so am learning to be patient 😂.
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3 years ago