May 1, 2023
Carcassonne to Minerve
A last minute change of plan led to a fabulous day.
We had planned to go north from Carcassonne towards the mountains; starting with an easy ride to Caune-Minervois where we could drop the luggage and then explore with light bikes, but just before leaving Steve checked his email and there was an answer from le Relais Chantovent in Minerve. From Bill Buford's book Dirt, I had learned about Les Meillieurs Restaurants, a designation for establishments that make everything from scratch using local ingredients. The Chantovent was one that looked good, could be on our way and offered a reasonably priced forfait demi pension (room, supper and breakfast) so I had sent off an inquiry. The answer was that they had space tonight, were closed Tuesday and were booked for the rest of the week. A quick yes and we had a table for tonight.
New Plan: Minerve is 54km with a big climb at the end and, this being France, reception was closed 3 to 5:30pm. Could we make it before 3pm? After three nights in the tent, the allure of parking the bikes, a hot shower and a nap in an indoor bed before supper was motivating.
The first 15km we followed the Canal to Tarbes, a charming town with a pretty waterfront, where we tried in vain to buy bread on May 1, a public holiday. Then we turned on to the D206 which took us through the rural France we love. This is the Minervois wine district where vineyards stretch in every direction with the occasional field of wheat flowing in the wind (it actually changes colour as it moves). We saw signs for Chateaux with wine tasting but, unlike Bordeaux where the castles are in plain sight, all we saw were impressive gates and the start of a winding lane leading to somewhere we might venture if we had more time. But not today.
The hills were mostly down, the wind was at our backs and Minerve by 3pm was looking easy as we averaged 20km/h. But then Steve checked the routing and yes, that big ridge ahead would have to be climbed. At 2:45 Ann was dragging and there was still lots of hill ahead so Steve said adieu and made haste. At 2:59 when Steve was almost at the top and probably only 10 minutes away; he called, they picked up with a pas de souci, we are here when you arrive. Steve relaxed and enjoyed the coast down into Minerve, one of les plus beaux villages de France, and checked in. Ann arrived soon after. The village is indeed beautiful.
Supper was amazing. The dining room was lively and full, a glass wall looked out over the gorge, each dish had been assembled to please the palate and the eye, the wine came from vineyards on the edge of town, the service was efficient...
Yes, this was a fabulous day.
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Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 227 km (141 miles)
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