October 28, 2013
Cazalla de la Sierra
Driving sheep on the cycle path
From purely a cycling perspective this was probably the best day ride of the tour. Leaving Llerena we rode southeast toward Andalusia, gradually climbing the northern slope of the first ridge of the Sierra Morena, propelled along by a mild tailwind. Conditions were beautiful, as were the ever expanding views northward across the Extramaduran plain as we rose above it. To our right, we passed beneath a ruined alcazar (Arabic fortress) atop a knoll near Reina.
Near the crest we entered Andalusia, and the huge Sierra del Norte natural park that encompasses much of the border region. We were within this preserve for the remainder of the day and half of the next. It is a very beautiful rolling upland area, consisting primarily of oak forests.
After rolling along on empty roads through this landscape we arrived at San Nicolas del Puerto, where we joined the Via Verde de la Sierra Norte de Sevilla. A long name, but this could easily be the best cycle path we have ever ridden on. It is a converted rail line that runs from a mining center to the railway stop between Cazalla and Constantina. Everything about it was terrific, but it was cemented into our minds as one of our most memorable rides when we encountered a flock of a few hundred sheep walking down the path. It was a wonderful experience to cycle up close behind and then though the flock, sheep peacefully parting on either side of our bikes.
Arriving in Cazalla de la Sierra in midafternoon, we enjoyed dinner on the sidewalk at a bar/cafe, and then went off to check into our hotel. We are still not sure what happened here - either we went to the wrong place or the hotel we had a reservation at was no longer open, but we were rather rudely turned away. Wandering around looking for an alternative, we landed in the elegant, beautiful Posada del Moro. It is a huge place and probably the finest place around (its restaurant earns a Michelin rating), but when we arrived it was under minimal management and we appeared to be its only guests. It seems to be all but shut down for the season.
We completed the day with a peaceful walk out of town into the countryside, enjoying its utter serenity. For much of the day, we have been in such lightly touched surroundings that the only sounds were of our tires on the pavement or crunching through fallen leaves, the wind, birds, and domesticated animals. It felt like we could have been living centuries in the past.
Elevation 2800' today, 34,700' total.
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Today's ride: 48 miles (77 km)
Total: 745 miles (1,199 km)
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