Omalos - North to the Balkans - CycleBlaze

May 4, 2018

Omalos

Today’s ride may prove to be the hardest ride of the tour.  I hope so.  With 6,400’ of climbing I  just 38 miles, it seemed like we were always climbing.  Not really though - at least 8 miles were downhill.

This ride to Omalos, a mountain village near the base of the White Mounains, wasn’t part of the original plan.  It’s a bailout creation brought about by the cancellation of yesterday’s ferry due to high winds.  The winds seem even worse today, so I imagine the ferry was down this morning also.

Although it was an improvisation, we were both very happy with it.  The scenery was incredible the whole way, and riding conditions were excellent  - sunny, not too hot, not too windy.  Toward the end of the day, above 3,000’, we were actually getting a bit chilled.

The ride consisted of two very similar climbs - both long gradual ascents averaging about 5%, each gaining about 2,500’ in about 11 miles.  In between, a 1,300’ drop.  Quiet virtually the entire way, except for an unusual biking tour group we kept crossing paths with - unusual in that the6 were riding rowing bikes, a contraption I’ve never seen before.  It operates much like a rowing machine, powered by both arms and legs.  On a long climb like these, it looked like torture to me.

There are some other things to be said about the day, but I’m not going to say them.  I’m tired, and ready for bed.

The sky is a bit odd today - hazy, and with poor visibility. Also very windy. It’s a good thing we changed our plans, since the ferry was down today also.
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Less than a mile from town we enter a narrow gorge and commence climbing. It’s all uphill for the next eleven miles.
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We saw the dragon arum earlier in this journal, but plastered against the canyon wall it seemed worth a repeat showing.
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Bruce LellmanThis is so amazing to me because I always thought these plants preferred moist, hummus-rich soil and shade. I can't believe where they are growing on Crete. Also, you are lucky to see them blooming. The long and smelly spathe only lasts a couple of days. This one is an outstanding specimen.
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanYou’re right about habitat, I think. They’re quite common here in the right conditions, but mostly shaded and dampish. What a dramatic plant though!
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6 years ago
This was a long but really great climb, scenic and quiet the whole way.
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In the right environment, Cretan ebony is really prolific, growing in large tracts. It seems to favor higher elevations (here, about 2000’).
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Near the top of a saddle we look back at the tortured road we’ve climbed. Note between the trees the tandem rowing bike - the first time I’ve seen one of these contraptions. Reminds me of the pushmi-pullyou from Doctor Doolittle.
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A closer look at the pushmi-pullyou. Hard to see how you get anywhere, really. Must be quite frustrating.
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euphorvia characias (Mediterranean spurge). Credit: Andrea Brown
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Andrea BrownThere are a zillion euphorbias but if this is native then it's probably Euphorbia characias.
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonLooks just right. I know I’ve seen this plant often in the Mediterranean, but never bothered to look it up. This is so much easier - thanks again! I think I’ll remember it better as a Mediterranean spurge though.
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6 years ago
Agios Iovannis church at a saddle of the first climb, more or less a false summit.
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After our eleven mile climb, we dropped through this gorge before another twelve mile climb up the other side, finally passing through the notch in the center of the range.
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Timios Stavros Church, Rodovani
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Agios Ioannis Church, beside our lunch stop at Rodovani
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Another false summit, this time on the second climb of the day. Only a few more miles of climbing to go.
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We stared up at this array of windmills for about an hour as we climbed out of the gorge to the left. Finally we reached them, curved around the lip of the gorge, and kept climbing.
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Nearing the top. I think the gap ahead is the one we looked at a few photos and a few hours earlier.
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Tired as we were by now, the final few miles of the climb were a delight. We had a good tailwind for the first time, and lots of company to keep our spirits up.
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Finally, we drop into wonderfully peaceful Omalos Plateau, at about 3,400’.
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I was pleased with this photo, because I thought I was too late to capture the huge swarm of gulls that rose from the basin. In case you wonder about the mottled pavement, note that the plateau has a huge sheep population.
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On the Omalos Plateau
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From the plateau we took the short, steep spur to the Samaria Gorge lookout. After 6,000’ of climbing, what’s another 300’, anyway?
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Approaching the White Mountains, and the end of the day’s climb.
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Surveying the realm
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Looking up from the Samaria Gorge viewpoint
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The White Mountains. Below is the pathway for the Samaria Gorge hike, one of the most famous gorge hikes in Europe. Just drop down to the low point, and then turn right and keep falling until reaching the sea at Ag Roumeli.
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Panorama shot from the Samaria Gorge overlook
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Back on the E4! We could have just trekked up here.
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Street life in front of our hotel, Omalos
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Ride stats: today, 38 miles, 6,400’; for the tour, 242 miles, 24,200’
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Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 286 miles (460 km)

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Janet BeatyAmazing climbing and views!! Must feel wonderful!
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6 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Janet BeatyWonderful to be done, especially!
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6 years ago