May 7, 2019
Montignac to Sarlat-la-Canéda
Through green countryside
Last night when I looked at our route for today, I noticed that we had already ridden a third of it when we stretched our legs after Lascaux. But there are many little white roads on the map so we decided to go a different way. I note that this is one good reason to carry paper maps!
We descended the short distance from our accommodation to the D704 (red on the map!) and rode east for maybe 500m. A left turn onto a tiny white road and we were riding through green fields and forests. Our first surprise was St-Amand-de-Coly with its 15th century abbey. We didn't stop, but it looked interesting from the outside. More up and down and then a long down to cross D64 (yellow on the map). We continued southeast through places not on the map (Péchaude was, though there were only two houses, Péchaude-bas and Péchaude-haut) to Archignac. A tiny, tidy village. A fellow was buying cheese from a truck that had stopped and he greeted us. We asked him if there were a restaurant nearby and yes, there was, that way at the top of a hill. Très bon, formule midi including wine and coffee for 13.50€. At least, that's what I thought he said.
We decided to continue since it's hard to ride after a big meal and soon came to Salignac. The market was closed but a fruit and veg vendor was just starting to put his produce away. We got a basket of strawberries and he told us that the boulangerie was up around the corner and open until 12:30. Off we went to get a sandwich for Al and a quiche for me. Food packed away, the next stop was the public WC we'd been looking for when we saw the market.
Now for a place to eat our goodies. We saw no benches except along D61 as we headed out of town and they looked more like bus stops. "We can do better," we said. It took us 12 km but we did; the churchyard in Ste-Nathalène was lovely and equipped with a picnic table. And I have to say that D61 heading southwest from Salignac rates a double green highlight on the Michelin map! Sometimes I wonder about the criteria for the green highlight, but not this time.
We continued into Sarlat and found our accommodation. The street it's on has steps, but not too bad. We didn't have to unload our bikes at all, but we did have to push. We were early so returned (with bikes) to the nearby Place de la Liberté for a beer. I had Picon Bière again! I think that might be my drink for this part of the tour. I really like it.
Our accommodation is La Maison du Notaire Royale. It's in the medieval city in a historic building that includes 3 separate houses that were combined in the 17th century. Nice location and, although we have the smallest room, it's quite spacious.
We wandered the medieval city before dinner, sightseeing and checking menus. We chose a place that offered something other than the usual Périgord tourist menu and it was okay, though Pascal set a pretty high standard the other day!
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Today's ride: 49 km (30 miles)
Total: 332 km (206 miles)
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