Col de Coustouges

March 29, 2022

Another unexpected bonus ride. We were expecting to sit out of much of today and tomorrow from the predicted rains here in Céret, but they haven’t materialized today. They’re still in the picture but have been conveniently shoved off to the edge of the frame and now don’t look to arrive until five or six when we scope out the situation before breakfast.

We enjoy a custom-prepared breakfast banquet in the dining room presented by our host Paul, an expat from Yorkshire who moved here 20 years ago. We placed our order last night by filling out a menu and hanging it on our door, and it’s served up in stages this morning beginning with a French press and a picnic basket filled with dishware and the cold items and followed up with plates of scrambled eggs, mushrooms and bacon. Afterwards, I retire upstairs to the room to plot out some ride ideas while Rachael steps out to the pharmacy to acquire a fresh infusion for the SIM card on my phone.

Around 11 we head out on the bikes, heading west up La Tech, the prominent river that originates in the mountains and runs past town on its way to the sea. In describing this ride to Paul the next morning he looks puzzled at first. It takes him a moment, but then he corrects me - it’s Le Tech, not the Tech River.

It’s a pleasant ride for the first six miles as we follow a well-marked bike route that alternates between bike paths and residential streets as we follow it through the small riverside towns of Amelie-les-Bains and Arles-Sur-Tech. Beyond Arles for the next six miles we’re on the D115, the minor highway that if we followed it far enough would carry us up to 5,000’ Col d’Ares at the border before dropping into Catalonia. We aren’t going as far or as high as that pass today, but it’s nice to be reminded of the time we crossed it eight years ago traveling in the other direction on our way from Camprodon to Céret. I still like to think back on that summit, with a sign asserting that Spain is still another 210 kilometers off since this is Catalonia.

West of Céret, with a view of the mountains ahead.

Crossing theTech, on a pedestrian bridge that looks like it’s from a former rail line.

Along the Tech. Quiet this morning, but the traffic on the way back in the afternoon will make us a bit anxious.

We’ve loaded two alternatives for today’s ride that diverge about 14 miles into it. One continues up the river for another six miles to Prats-de-Mollo, and the other diverges south to follow a tributary up a minor pass to the border. When we reach this spot it’s an easy call, as the side road looks much quieter and more appealing. The next three miles are the best of the day as we follow a road that has been closed off to cars, presumably because an old, rusty girder bridge has been condemned for heavier loads. It’s a delightful ride as we slowly climb through the woods with the only sounds being the river below and the occasional rapping of a woodpecker.

The old bridge across the Tech, now closed to motor vehicles.

Crossing the Tech, with the road completely to ourselves.

The old road along the Quera, a minor tributary of the Tech. It’s been superseded by the D3 that runs along the opposite bank.

Video sound track: La Vie en Rose, by Cyrille Aimée

After three miles we cross the Quera and join the D3 and pick up a slight amount of traffic. We’ll continue climbing on it for another four miles until reaching the border, but first we stop at a small park for lunch where we admire a wonderful view of Canigou buried in snow. At the end, for the fourth day running I rub the sprocket marks off my calf with the rind from today’s cheese. I really should save this off for the end of the ride, because I invariably will resoil myself before returning to our room.

Tempting, but we brought our own cheese today.

Should give you excellent traction. Just the thing in the winter.

At the summit we grab our shot, take a peek down the other side into Catalonia again, and turn back. If we continued on in this direction we’d come to Figueres in another 25 miles, so this would be another fine alternative for crossing the frontier.

Our third and highest pass this week, but the first with an actual sign.

It’s nearing three when we turn back, and with 22 miles to go we bike it straight through other than for a brief stop to loop through Coustouges, the tiny village at the frontier. And it’s a good thing we do, because it starts lightly sprinkling just as we’re biking into the outskirts of Céret.

Coustouges, the frontier village on the French side of the summit.

In Coustouges. Our Bike Fridays had an easier time of it squeezing through this narrow alley.

The residue from Rachael’s serving of gambas flambées, shown here to remind her not to order this again because it’s just too damn much work. I was halfway through my pizza before she finished shelling these beasts and returned from the bathroom to wash her hands,

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Ride stats today: 45 miles, 3,000’; for the tour: 340 miles, 20,100’

Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 340 miles (547 km)

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Angela NaefHappy you’re are adventuring again and we get to follow along. So enjoyed the video today, lovely ride and beautiful version of ‘La Vie en Rose’
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Angela NaefThanks, Angela. We’re happy to be adventuring again too, of course. We had great fun hopping around with our bikes and the Raven over the winter, but it can’t compare to an experience like this.

And I love this version of the song also. We were lucky to get to hear Cyrille perform at a small venue in Portland about 15 years ago, and if I’m remembering correctly this was one of the numbers she performed.
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2 years ago