The alarm worked like clockwork once again. No sooner had it sounded that we were soon on our way down to the first floor (one floor up from ground level) for breakfast in the attractive breakfast room. Alex found the food underwhelming but I found my bun with cheese and meat was delicious, so I was a happy tourist. I had been looking forward to a Portuguese orange, but alas, there were none many.
The number one destination for Alex was to see the Igreja e Torre dos Clérigos and to go up the tower. Everything he'd read was that the entry fee was well worth it. So away we went - it was only about a ten minute walk from our hotel.
The walking route had us go through a number of religious artifact displays then wound around upper levels of the church with views from above down into the sanctuary, with views of the pipe organs and from behind the statue of Christ. Those clever church leaders had many spots from which to inspect their flocks down below. I'm not sure if it was to smile on their flock or figure out who was missing that Sunday!
On the top of Alex's list of places to visit in Porto was the Igreja e Torre dos Clérigos so right after breakfast we headed over. -- Porto, Portugal
Then we got to the winding steps that led up the tower. The passageway was narrow enough that when people were decending we would have to wait in spots that allowed two people to pass, otherwise it was impossible. As we went up, there were several views down to the area surrounding the church and tower.
Just before emerging to the top we passed the numerous bells and the works to run them. Right there was a bench and what looked like an organ but was the mechanism to actually play the bells which meant a musician sat there to play full tunes on the bells. Then when we emerged - incredible views all across the city and down to the Douro. Both Alex and I were amazed. It was so gratifying to hear him continually exclaim how amazing everything is.
Views of the city and the river were amazing from the Torre dos Clérigos. Many steps up a narrow passageway, but well worth it. -- Porto, Portugal
Alex checking out the views of the city and the river from the Torre dos Clérigos. Many steps up a narrow passageway, but well worth it. -- Porto, Portugal
We reluctantly made our way back down then made our way to the Ribeira just to see what was what. The crowds were growing, the river and buildings were beautiful. I love Porto.
After meandering over toward the Luis I bridge Alex spotted a stone staircase that looked interesting so up we went past the old stone walls and toward the cathedral. There were a lot of steps to this staircase. A lot.
The climb was long enough and the day warm enough that we plunked down on a stone staircase in front of the Cathedral when we arrived. People were about, musicians were playing and the line of people to get into the Cathedral was growing. Now re-energized, we got ourselves into the line to wait our turn to enter the Cathedral. The line moved quickly and before long we were inside the Cathedral that I always meant to go in but had never done so.
The chapels were beautiful, the sanctuary was massive and incredibly ornate, there was gold, there were azulejos, there were flying buttresses, and there was another tower to climb... with more steps. Once again, of course, the views were incredible. We could see so much of the city that we had already explored.
We had done a lot of walking and the temperature was climbing so we stopped at the Ribeira to relax and just take in the beauty of the place. In the background is the Ponte Luis I bridge. -- Porto, Portugal
Our next major stop was up to the Porto Sé where we explored the sanctuary, the chapels, the cloister and headed up one of the towers for more amazing views of the city. -- Porto, Portugal
Our next major stop was up to the Porto Sé where we explored the sanctuary, the chapels, the cloister and headed up one of the towers for more amazing views of the city. -- Porto, Portugal
Our next major stop was up to the Porto Sé where we explored the sanctuary, the chapels, the cloister and headed up one of the towers for more amazing views of the city. -- Porto, Portugal
Our next major stop was up to the Porto Sé where we explored the sanctuary, the chapels, the cloister and headed up one of the towers for more amazing views of the city. -- Porto, Portugal
Our next major stop was up to the Porto Sé where we explored the sanctuary, the chapels, the cloister and headed up one of the towers for more amazing views of the city. The white building at the bottom of the photo is the Bishop's Palace. -- Porto, Portugal
Our next major stop was up to the Porto Sé where we explored the sanctuary, the chapels, the cloister and headed up one of the towers for more amazing views of the city. The white building at the bottom of the photo is the Bishop's Palce. -- Porto, Portugal
Our next major stop was up to the Porto Sé where we explored the sanctuary, the chapels, the cloister and headed up one of the towers for more amazing views of the city. -- Porto, Portugal
Once we had passed through the ornate displays of religous artifacts, we headed out and around the corner to the little family-owned restaurant that seems to be Porto's best kept secret. To find a locked door. A woman from above stuck her head out to say it was closed for holidays (this is becoming the norm for any places I have sought). Saddened, we headed down toward the train station where we had spotted some typical-looking restaurants in side streets. It appeared to be a locals kind of place, and sure enough it was. Alex had an omelet and I had hake - both were delicious.
We saw this restaurant yesterday and it appeared to have local workers eating there so after Retiro de Sé was found to be closed we came here to eat. -- Porto, Portugal
We saw this restaurant yesterday and it appeared to have local workers eating there so after Retiro de Sé was found to be closed we came here to eat. -- Porto, Portugal
Next up was something new to me. I had recently read about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how spectacular they were with great views over the Douro and not crowded with tourists. It was a kilometre or two away and we headed that way to see what it was like.
It did not take long to get there and we went from dusty city streets to a lush green oasis of beauty with glimpses of the blue Douro way down below. There were many species of trees, flowers and plants, many birds including ducks, roosters and peacocks. There were twisting paths winding around water features and various levels as a lot of the park was set into the side of the hill. I can't believe I have been missing this gem all of this time. If anyone reading this is wondering if you should go... yes, go! And yes, you Peregrinos, too.
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. -- Porto, Portugal
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. -- Porto, Portugal
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. -- Porto, Portugal
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. -- Porto, Portugal
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. Tomorrow's route is in the photo on the left side of the Douro. -- Porto, Portugal
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. Tomorrow's route is in the photo on the left side of the Douro. -- Porto, Portugal
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. Tomorrow's route is in the photo on the left side of the Douro. -- Porto, Portugal
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. Tomorrow's route is in the photo on the left side of the Douro. -- Porto, Portugal
I only recenty heard about the Crystal Palace Gardens and how beautiful they were so the kilometre or so walk out to them was next. Neither of us was disappointed - they are spectacular. Tomorrow's route is in the photo on the left side of the Douro. -- Porto, Portugal
It was fairly warm out and though the park was beautiful I worried if after so long out and about we'd hit the wall and struggle to get back to the hotel. Sadly, we left the park (I will return next time in Porto) and headed back toward our hotel, with a stop at a Spar supermarket for snacks and juice.
It was nice to put our feet up, and some or all of us might even have had a little snooze. We did a bit of journal work than headed back to the same restaurant as last night for dinner. This time I ordered a mixed platter of beef, portk and choriço, and Alex had the francesinha. In 2017 I described it as a ham and cheese sandwich with a frid egg on top, melted cheese drizzled over it, then what tastes like sweet tomato soup concentrate poured over it. The server assured us their version was tasty. Let's just say we were spectacularly underwhelmed with dinner and I thought his was as bad as the 2017 version. Never again.
