Cordoba

September 27, 2004

The ride from Palma Del Rio to Cordoba was much better than the ride from Seville. The further upriver and away from Seville we got, the more attractive the land became. We spent most of the fairly short day on generally quiet roads, gradually gaining altitude and winding our way through low hills.

The high point, both literally and figuratively, came at scenic Almadovar del Rio, its well preserved and restored castle dramatically crowning the hill above the town. We stopped in the town for lunch and to climb the steep hill up to the castle for a tour and to enjoy fine views down on the valley.

Almadovar del Rio, its castle dramatically crowning the hill above the town. Looks like it would be a fine place to stay, but a bit too far from Seville for us to have made it in one day.

The castle at Almadovar del Rio was originally a Roman Fort, but got its current structure in 760 as a Muslim Berber design.

The castle was restored in the 1930’s and remains in excellent condition.

The view from the ramparts over the Guadalquivir valley.

We arrived in Cordoba in late afternoon at the upper edge of the town, and then with difficulty worked our way down through it’s crowded, somewhat chaotic streets to our hotel, just a few blocks from both the river and the Mezquita, the great mosque-cathedral that Cordoba is so famous for. Too late in the day to visit the Mezquita, we left it for the next morning and spent the early evening along the river and walking across its great pedestrianized Roman Bridge. I remember being astonished by the huge flocks of egrets roosting in the trees growing on islets in the river - easily the largest number of egrets I’d ever seen.

The Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir. Originally built by the Romans in the 1st century AD, it is believed to have been on the Via Augusta that connected Rome and Cadiz. Its present structure is from the redesign by the Moors in the late eighth century, roughly the time that the castle at Almadovar was built.

We plan on returning to Cordoba this fall, and I’m anxious to see this bridge again. It underwent a significant restoration in 2006, not long after this visit.

It was unbelievable watching the egrets coming in to roost at the end of the day. There must have been thousands of them, streaming in from all directions in great waves.

This was a pretty memorable day already, but the ‘best’ was yet to come. Our dinner this evening, at Patio de la Juderia restaurant, is without doubt the most memorable meal we have experienced anywhere in our travels. We stumbled upon this restaurant by chance, wandering through the chaotic maze of alleys surrounding the Mezquita looking for an appealing spot. I remember being quite happy with the meal, and especially the white gazpacho - the best gazpacho I have ever had. I’ve been looking for something like it ever since, without success.

So the meal was good. That’s not why we remember it though. When it came time to pay the bill, I was chagrined to find that I had left my billfold back in the hotel. I think this is the only time this has happened to us, before or since. There was nothing to be done but to leave Rachael as hostage with the bill while I ran back to the hotel (fortunately, this was back in the days before my knees started giving out and I could still run). We weren’t far from the hotel, so I expected to return in about ten minutes.

It took me no time at all to realize that I had no idea where the hotel was, and I couldn’t even remember its name. No map, no phone, and nothing to be done but run back through this maze hoping to recognize landmarks. I don’t remember how long this took, but it must have been twenty minutes or so. I do remember though that it was getting dark and I was feeling increasingly frantic, and concerned for Rachael stranded back at the restaurant. It was an immense relief when I finally spotted our hotel, raced upstairs, and found the billfold. I forget now, but I think on top of all this was the uncertainty of whether I’d lost it or been robbed rather than just left it behind.

I rushed back down the stairs and out into the dark alley, and immediately realized that now I didn’t know where the restaurant was, and didn’t know it’s name either. Unbelievable - I had dashed off without thinking to be sure that I could find my way back again. It took me just as long finding my way back as it took to find the hotel. I was a total nervous wreck when I finally found it again, and so of course was Rachael. In her memory, she had been waiting there uncomfortably for about an hour.

This restaurant is still in business, so we’ll definitely plan on eating there this fall if it’s open when we’re in town. With luck, white gazpacho will still be on the menu.

A unique experience. I’m so glad I took this photograph so we can find it again.

Most people don’t go to Cordoba for the gazpacho though. They go to see the Mezquita, one of the can’t-miss sights of Andalucia. We visited it first thing the next morning before biking off to Baena, and I still think back on it as one of the most memorable religious structures I’ve ever seen. It is absolutely mesmerizing, and unlike anything else in Western Europe as far as I know of. I’m not sure, but I think if I could only come to Andulacia and see one thing, it might be this.

Heart

Comment

Link

Ride stats today: 37 miles, 1,200’; for the tour: 331 miles, 23,400’

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 331 miles (533 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	2
Comment on this entry	Comment	0